1st Gen R50 Cooper How to take the head off?

I recommend patience and wait for the manual. Here's an overview, start with this procedure, but leave the thermostat housing connected to the hoses R53 Thermostat & Housing Installation - Library, unclip the coolant temp sending unit on the head, remove the intercooler and IC output duct, if you have nimble fingers and nifty small tools the three 8mm bolts holding the BPV to the IC output duct can be removed, or detach the band clamp from the hose feeding the supercharger intake duct (this method is a reconnect ***** because the IC output duct is secured to the intake manifold over studs), follow these steps http://www.werkinmini.com/R50-R53%20Camshaft%20Installation.pdf, disconnect the fuel rail and injectors, remove the rail with injectors, unbolt header, remove head bolts from outside to inside in circular path. Lifting the head with intake manifold is a bit sticky because dowel pins must be cleared, and the head gasket will not want to let go. Once the head is removed the block deck must be cleaned, I use a Roloc disc pad 051144-05539, take care to keep the disc pad flat so it doesn't round edges, a flat block and ultra fine sand paper can also be used, be sure to cover/fill all the openings so abrasive material doesn't contaminate the cylinder walls & rings, enter oil passages, or timing chain galley.




Are you using OEM head bolts, or aftermarket studs or bolts?

 

Uhmmmmm, have you ever done this kind of work before? Do you have the shop, tools etc to successfully complete the job?

I'm always surprised by how willing a neophyte is to tackle a complex job like this with little more than a How-To, no tools and no experience in mechanical things.

Best of luck to you!

 

See the camshaft installation pdf I linked previously for marking the timing chain & camshaft sprocket, and camshaft related torque numbers. After marking, lower the timing chain slowly. The head bolts are single use torque to yield bolts, not re-usable unless they have not stretched. A new bolt will be needed as a baseline for measurement; I don't recommend re-use.

Engine bracket to engine 74 ft-lb
Exhaust manifold 18 ft-lb
Intake manifold 19 ft-lb
Cylinder head to block with OEM bolts, first round 30 ft-lb, circular inside to outside, second round + 90 degree torque angle for each
The two bolts on the timing chain side of the head 21 ft-lb

Something I failed to mention earlier is removing the timing chain guides, the bolts are 21 ft-lb.

 

KUDOS for doing it your self!! Just DONT drop the timing chain, or move the engine!!

Just me..................................

Thumper

 

Man it is hard to beat that OBXr Header. IF you do a cylinder head in the future, let the Porter know to match the OBX header to the head... cool??

Just me.......................

Thumper

 

I know of a nice Fidanza Flywheel for sale if you are upgrading your clutch. :wink: PM if interested

 

There's not enough flow from the stock NA 1.6 for it too make a difference for anything other than noise.

 

Cool... Neat way to do a build, sorta like the old tv series Mash where Radar sent a Jeep home in the mail.. piece by piece!! LOL


4-2-1 design.. proven power thru the years of Header design.

Head and Gasket ACTUALLY need to be enlarged for proper interface between Header and Head.
what the OEM header mis-match restriction is...

OEM header dia is approx 1.00" and the OBXr is 1.55 " dia., There might be a few better designs out there.. for 6xs more cost, and a few more topend ponies... but for the dual purpose street some time track.. the $189.00 OBXr head rocks..!!


Just saying.............................................

Thumper

 

The OEM gasket doesn't seal well on the OBX, it requires a different gasket. The OEM exhaust gasket can't be "enlarged" without compromising good seal.

The head's exhaust ports do not need to be "enlarged" to match a header for a proper interface. The important step here is smaller exit port on the head to larger entrance on the header flange for anti-reversion.

 

totally.. the Header come with the proper gasket.

Anti-reversion isnt that much of an issue with a boosted small cam engine, and yet the wider port.. 1.75" of the OBXr vs the 1.355" of the OEM is. So the gain ( in this case ) will over ride any anti-reversion.

A few other aftermarket headers are basically matched to the oem gasket.. at a 1.050 high and 1.55 wide. The OBXr matches the OD size of the tubing to most aftermarket headers..

Yep!! hard to beat a Header 7 times less in Price for a street / track car...

Just saying.....................................

Thumper

 

Besides backpedaling on the exhaust gasket, the rest is incomprehensible. This is an NA Cooper in discussion. A forced induction engine with higher cylinder pressures doesn't preclude it from the benefits of anti-reversion steps. Excessively large exhaust primaries better suited for larger displacement than small liter normally aspirated, or very high cylinder pressures from turbo, twin charged, or overdriven supercharger, is a negative, not a positive, at any price.