Chad just said what I'm about to: We ran 215/45/17 NT-01's, donated by J&T Tire in Allison Park, PA (shout out, great guys) on the PVGP demo-lap Track Rides F56's, stock suspensions. What really worked to provide a good, progressive, safe ride was starting at 32 all the way around, and bleeding off to stay about 38 hot. Anything more and they felt a bit more slippy. Now, bear in mind, we were giving fast, 7-8/10ths track rides to people and sponsors making donations, so leaving skid marks (of any kind!) was "out", and we were not timed - I'm just giving my impressions and controllability vs. pressure, and these impressions were shared by all 3 drivers. The "sweet spot" seemed to be around 36-38 hot. More was slippy, less was mushy. I found the NT-01's a fantastic track tire, very consistent and progressive, great dry grip, didn't overheat easily, with excellent wet grip provided the water wasn't pooling. Only downside was driving on he street (and slow laps on track) where they really picked up clag and got noisy. Fortunately there's a great, fun cure for that.
Guys, I appreciate all the feedback. I will start out at 32psi and see where I end up after each session and make adjustments from there. Chris, I also started filling out a setup sheet at my last event. I need to log the ambients and tire pressure pre and post session. I will likely drop my starting pressure thru the course of the day as ambients pick up. Castor is your friend. That is the advice I have been given as well! The AST camber plates are nice units but no castor adjustment. I'm guessing that you have gone stroker and Vipec on the motor? I have focused on handling but I see more power in my future :biggrin5: VIR has two long straights which makes it tough against the Porsches and M3s. I'm getting to the point where I can hang with most of them around the tight stuff. They gap me down the straights.
1.8 L Stroker, Vipec/Vipec dash, and TVS 900, and some other goodies. It's probably a month or so from being done. I'm going to write it all up when it's finished. Car is in Irvine where Jan, Kevin, Colin and Owen can work their magic. I really want to get sub 2:40 at RA someday; with this setup and more improvement behind the wheel I'm to get there this year. I can run consistent 2:47's now with my current setup, and there's more time to be had with what I have currently, but not 7 seconds. At least not by me. Once you get the suspension dialed in, you'll chew up most M3's in the turns, and most Porsche's, depending on how they're set up. I mean, a GT3, well, that's not going to happen. I get pulled in the straights, but the cool thing with M3's, if you get good exit speed and get up on them coming out of a turn onto a long straight, you can draft them for awhile on the straights before they pull you. Then catch them in the next braking zone/set of turns. If you really want to piss them off, tell them your MINI is stock when they come by and demand to know what you've done to the car.
Awesome!! I think I was at 218whp about 60k miles ago. I have a feeling that some of those ponies have left the stable. Recently got a Vipec. Will work on getting it installed after VIR, before heading to MOTD. These cars are giant slayers. It's a challenge. That's what I really enjoy. Earning respect in our Minis is cool. My first event last year I really struggled. Second time at VIR was in the rain and I learnt a lot. Rain is a great HP equalizer. Third time out last year, I started having trouble in areas I had no issues before, because my speed was improving as I gained experience. Working on getting as much seat time this year to improve as a driver. Thanks for sharing I will stay touch.
I usually start at 26f/28r cold and that gets me to 36 square hot when running 225-45-15 nt-01s, I do tweak a bit based on temp and track. For example, the track I was at Monday I run 2 psi higher hot on the left side because it is clockwise huehuehue. I am running 80/70 N/mm springs with -2.7 camber in the front and -1.7 in the rear a smidge of toe out on the front and 0 in the rear. I have a pdf somewhere that toyo released about optimizing the ra-1 which is the same compound as the nt-01. I believe it recommends maxing out caster. Hoosier does the same for their tires (minimum camber etc.) to get the best out of them.
Toyo Tires recommends the following general set up guidelines for the Proxes RA1: Operating Temperature: 160°F to 220°F Hot Inflation Pressures: High 30s to Low 40s (psi) Camber: -2.5° to -5.0° Caster: As much positive as possible From: Proxes RA1 | Toyo Tires
225 NT-01's on 15x8 ET36 Jongbloed wheels from Phils Tire Service. Great folks at PTS. C'mon dry weather at VIR. :fingerscrossed::fingerscrossed::fingerscrossed:
Hey Chris, What wheels are you running? 6UL from 949Racing? 15x9 et 36 up front with 15mm spacer. What was the main clearance issue? The coil over on the inside or was it your BBK? I am running the TSW BBK which has a 4 or 5mm spacer built into the rotor hat. I cannot remember the exact dimensions that Jiff Bibbee told me back when I purchased them. Trying to figure out whether I will get away with the 10mm spacer I already have or need buy a 12mm spacer if I go with the 15x9 front rim. Is the additional front grip worth the effort? Is it just corner grip or everything. Braking and earlier hard acceleration pick up....? Do you have your ride height notes handy. What was your ride height front and rear with your 15" wheels? Thanks Joe
15x9, +36, 15mm spacer, up front, 15x8 in rear, 8mm spacer. Everything is improved--acceleration, braking, cornering, and most importantly, lap times. Both brakes and coilovers on the inside come into play. I had the TSW setup before going to this, I thought the spacer was more like 1cm but it's been so long I'm probably wrong You might want to ask Way, he should know. I'm not 100% sure you're going to clear with the 949's, those calipers are wider and higher profile, although the rotor is only 11.75, mine is 12.19 so it probably will work. I don't have my ride heights written down--they're around somewhere, but I can't find them. It makes a HUGE difference how you have the heights front versus rear however, found this out when one shop put the rear too low. It'll all be different when I get the car back anyway. But Jeff's ride heights, if you still have them, are a GREAT place to start.
Chris, thank you. Front to rear rake 1/2". Not more than 3/4". Trying to see whether I can tuck the wheels back under the fender by going to a smaller spacer before dropping my ride height.
The rears were fine, but it's hopeless to tuck the front wheels. Which is why I jumped all over the widebody kit.